1° stage: (1h) Starting from the wharf of Fondamente Nove, in the northern part of the Venetian historic centre, take Line 13 – from Venice Fondamente Nove for Vignole, Sant’Erasmo,Treporti. After having crossed almost entire north lagoon, you come to the terminal stop of Treporti, a small built-up centre, that bears its name from ancient presence of three port mouths which are now missing, with its little church with two characteristic bell towers. Situated on the inland of Cavallino coast, a strip of land that closes the Veneto lagoon to the north and separates it from the Adriatic sea, is an ideal starting point for excursions in the valleys with lagoon panorama and which extend to the north, wedged in between a long sandbank of the coast and the inland, characterised by presence of fishnets that dangle above canals, by splendid sandbanks and by scattered lagoon lodges, typical dwellings of these fish areas. From here it’s possible to embark on the journey on foot but we advise you to rent a bicycle in Treporti that will allow you to penetrate into the vast lagoon horizons, through the ancient built-up areas of Cavallino shore up to the furthest point of this journey.
Once you have mounted your bicycle, turn right opposite the cemetery of Treporti, continue along the embankment and turn left following the indications for Lio Piccolo. Entering the marshes of Saccagnana, after a while you’ll find yourselves inside a small rural court of Prà, surrounded by low farmhouses, an elegant rustic villa and an ancient small church and where you might meet an old fellow seated who’ll give you the once over with a defending air giving you the sensation of being an intruder who enters somebody else’s house without being invited.
Going beyond this colourful farmyard, that seems not to have been tarnished by time at all, a lane that unwinds along the embankments becomes the narrowest strip half way the lagoon landscape which clearly separates the brackish areas of sandbank, where vegetation is mostly marshy, from tranquil areas of fresh water characterised by swamp thin cane. Advancing in this landscape that becomes more suggestive as you go, you will think to be gliding on tip of water with the same elegance and delicacy of many inhabitants of the lagoon that you’ll be able to meet: little egrets, sea crows, herons…
2° stage: (1h) At the crossroads turn right, following the indication Le Mesole, carrying on for about one kilometre amongst valleys and vegetable gardens with lettuces, courgettes and artichokes that make this lagoon corner particularly picturesque and finally you’ll reach the courtyard of the ancient renaissance villa that has recently been restored and which dates back to the first half of 16th century. Next to the house there rises a small church from 18th century, with an old slanting cypress in the garden, in whose shadow you could enjoy a well deserved refreshing break. Still continuing for a couple of kilometres amongst fish valleys, vegetable slots and gardens you’ll arrive to a farm in the small village of Le Motte, with its private marine where, if the weight doesn’t put you off, you can purchase fruit and vegetables. After the break, go back up to the crossroads, turn right and continue in Lio Piccolo direction.
3°stage: (2h) Along the journey the looks slip towards suggestive horizons offered by the lagoon landscape, which suddenly opens itself luminous, letting us discern in the distance the silhouettes of nearby Torcello and Burano, and a sensation of impotence of the ones, deprived of any water transport, are forced to travel on the slender strip of land. After a bit, where the sandbank widens, a bewildered renaissance village of Lio Piccolo appears, a place out of time, similar to a secretive and abandoned landscape, with its 17th century little church, in front of which there is an old orchard of jujubes, a small square surrounded by some houses, almost all uninhabited, and Palazzetto Boldù from 17th century. You can still continue for a bit from here, advancing along the embankments of valleys Paleazza, Olivata and Liona, where to an image of abandonment and disorder of houses replies by contrast the geometry of fishponds and very looked-after vegetable gardens called “mazzuolati” (arranged on humps to flee from wind bora), where air and brackish soil help cultivation of exquisite season’s early produce. Arriving up to the end of land strip, beyond which it’s not possible to continue, unless by water, opposite Lio Maggiore you could catch a glimpse of marshes and valleys that extend beyond eyesight in the water surrounding the lagoon whose natural sounds and perfumes reach visitors, like a thousand years ago. These valleys constitute very important areas from faunal point of view because they perform a role of valley/refuge for the ducks in stormy periods and are also an ideal place for nest-building for diverse species of birds amongst which there are stilt birds, rare redshanks, herring gulls, little terns, sea swallows and mallards which can be observed especially in spring. Let’s remind you that it’s a good rule to stop only briefly to observe the birds, in order not to disturb delicate moments of nest-building. Migrating periods are also interesting, during which you might see numerous species of passage.
Once you have returned to Treporti, after having left the bicycle, you could take again line 13 from Treporti in direction of Venice – Fondamenta Nove otherwise you could reach Punta Sabbioni by bus, where you could take a waterbus to bring you back to Venice - Piazza San Marco.
Useful information:
Indicative length of journey: one day
Transport: on foot or by bicycle
Length: about 20 km
Advisable period: The best period is from April to June and from September to November. To be avoided in the heat of summer (with sun and mosquitoes in July and August).
We advise that you take with you some soft drinks and a packed lunch because after Treporti, the only refreshment points are a bar and a grocery shop in Saccagnana and farm holiday place in Le Mesole (not always open outside season and during the week).
